16th Century Italian, Lucca, Silk Woven Lampas Runner

A little history: The Renaissance (French for "rebirth"), was a cultural movement that spanned roughly the 14th through the 17th century, beginning in Italy in the late Middle Ages and later spreading to the rest of Europe. This “rebirth” is why you’ll see so much ornamentation using plant life and flowers, symbols for rebirth.   

The textile: A 16th century Italian, probably Lucca, length of raspberry and ochre silk lampas made into a table runner. Woven with a curvilinear lattice of stylized acanthus leaves and flowers enclosing two-handled vases containing bouquets of flowers and crowns, typical motifs of the period. Edged with an 18th century metallic galon/trim, more than likely from a vestment/church garment, with a meandering stylized ribbon interspersed with flowers, backed with a matching raspberry colored cotton lining.  

Condition: This piece is comprised of three pieces, quite common since this fabric more than likely came from a dress. I’ve shown in the sixth picture what looks like a run but it’s actually the ground silk weave. Silk lampas gets its design from a slightly raised or float weft that makes the pattern. What you’re seeing is some of the silk weft missing but you still have the silk ground. Not an imperfection really, simply age. There are two-dime size black spots that I’ve chosen to leave alone. The lighter coloring on the metallic galon/trim comes from being folded, the parts are lighter from not being exposed to air which tarnishes metal.